How to Install a Cheap Motorsports MK60 ABS System (and AP Racing Brakes) | Quick and Dirty Series

You want to go fast on the track!? Well, power is only part of that equation; stopping and controlling that power reliably and consistently is an entirely different challenge. Unfortunately, most cars aren’t able to handle that task with the factory brake system. The MK60 ABS system has emerged as the industry standard for anti-lock braking among amateur racers seeking performance braking capabilities without having to pay nearly $10,000 USD for a Bosch Motorsports ABS system (seen below) to be installed.

Upgrading to a standalone MK60 ABS system is a game-changer for high-performance driving and motorsports use in nearly any vehicle. The MK60 ABS unit, commonly found in performance vehicles like the BMW E46 M3 and the M3 CSL, provides improved brake modulation, reduced wheel lock-up, and better overall control under hard braking. These units can often be found in various classifieds, on eBay, and possibly in junkyards, although that is unlikely unless you use one of the various MK60e derivatives. Once a unit is secured, the lines, sensors, and harnesses can all be fabricated or purchased separately or new.

In this Quick and Dirty guide, we will take you through the process of removing the factory ABS system and installing the MK60 ABS system in a standalone configuration, including sensor mounting, wiring, and brake line fabrication. Additionally, the standalone MK60 ABS system has its own OBD2 connectivity, which facilitates troubleshooting.

*Please note, however, in this installation, as this is on a track car, I did NOT install the DSC system, as it has been completely removed, and therefore I did NOT install the steering angle components or related switches and connectors.

As a bonus, we’ll also cover our extra upgrade to AP Racing CP5555 motorsports calipers for superior braking performance and reliability on track.

Parts You May Need

1. MK60 ABS Control Unit: There are two variants of MK60 units that came from the BMW E46 M3 that can be installed in a standalone configuration: OEM BMW PN: 34 51 2 282 558 (from 2003-2006 E46 M3’s EXCEPT ZCP and CSL models) and OEM BMW PN: 34 51 2 282 421 (from the E46 M3 ZCP or CSL package cars).
   • Any E46 M3 MK60 ABS unit will work if you are making your own harness, but if you are purchasing harnesses that are available on the market, check which units they work with first.
   • The control units with PNs ending in 813.3 are able to be “tuned” with custom, motorsports, or CSL software. Mine is an 818.3 model and seems to be the most common.
2. MK60 DSC/YAW Sensor: The YAW sensor is sometimes not utilized in some systems, but this is a preference of the installer and is generally considered to provide reduced performance when compared to a MK60 ABS system that utilizes the YAW sensor. I highly recommend using it to get full performance from this modification!
   • Use quantity 1x OEM BMW PN: 34 52 6 764 018
   • It is also important to note that these need to be located centrally in the vehicle and mounted in a particular position with a top side facing up.
3. MK60 Pressure Sensors: There are two sensors needed, one for the front and one for the rear lines; they go between the master cylinder and the control unit. It is critical that you use OEM pressure sensors! There are many, many aftermarket options available with a massive spread of quality; failures from these sensors are common and can be quite catastrophic.
   • Use quantity 2x OEM BMW PN: 34 52 1 164 458. I chose to install these with a VAC Motorsports pressure sensor manifold.
   • Just as with the YAW sensor, some installers choose to not utilize these sensors, and they are also considered to provide reduced performance, and there is speculation that the use of the sensors significantly reduces an on-track condition known as “ice mode,” which is understood to be the system believing that the car is sliding on ice, so it reduces the brake pressure, and thus your vehicle’s braking force—definitely NOT something you want on track.
   • Just as with the YAW sensor, I highly recommend you use a harness that allows you to install these.
   • Additionally, the sensors provide an opportunity to datalog and refine your performance on track.
   • Lastly, there are later variants of the MK60e system that use internal pressure sensors and come in a variety of other cars, but this guide is not suitable for those models.
4. MK60 Wiring Harness: You will need a wiring harness with the appropriate control unit connectors (it is possible to just cut the OEM harness with at least 12” of leads if you have a parts car to do so, and then extend the lines and connections yourself).
   • There are many ways to do this, and this is often one of the main reasons people do not pursue this modification, but it is not so bad; you can make or buy a harness if you want to simplify it. Doug Wardell of RHT Motorsports offers a harness, found here; Doug is who we used for our harness, as it includes all of the provisions and sensors we wanted. He is also a true wealth of knowledge on the MK60 installation!
     • I also utilized a separate fuse block kit with an independent relay as part of the standalone system, specifically the Painless Performance Circuit Boss Kit PN: 70213, found here.
     • You will also want to use an automotive relay to trigger the ground for the brake signal to the MK60 control unit. I chose to use an OEM BMW DPDT relay.
       • OEM BMW DPDT Relay PN: 12 63 1 742 690
     • You can also add an independent LED warning light to the system for ABS fault notifications. I chose to use one with an ABS icon, found here.
   • Another well-regarded harness provider is Epic Motorsports, found here.
   • Lastly, you can build your own from scratch if you have the skills and tools to do so; Tulay’s Wire Werks conveniently offers a connector kit for the MK60 ABS system, found here.
     • If you go this route, you will obviously also need wire, heat shrink, solder seal wire connectors, fuses, 2.7k resistors, etc. This is beyond the scope of this article.
5. Wheel Speed Sensors: You will need wheel speed sensors for this system to work properly. Since I did this install on an E36, the sensors fit right in with minimal modification, but your vehicle may require a more involved solution.
   • The OEM BMW part numbers for the wheel speed sensors are as follows:
     • Front Left Wheel ABS Sensor: 34 52 6 792 897
     • Front Right Wheel ABS Sensor: 34 52 6 792 896
     • Rear Left Wheel ABS Sensor: 34 52 6 752 691
     • Rear Right Wheel ABS Sensor: 34 52 6 752 691
   • You will also need the wheel speed connector, which is OEM BMW PN: 61 13 1 392 246. You can usually use these to terminate your existing sensor plug to make this a plug-and-play install.
6. Brake Lines: The location, configuration, or even absence of your existing ABS braking system may require new brake lines to be installed for the MK60 ABS system.
   • If your installation requires brake line fabrication, then I recommend Nickel Copper (NiCop) hard brake line, like this. This 3/16 brake line is easy to bend and flare, making installations of hard lines much easier without professional tools.
   • Additionally, I chose to use 3AN brake lines in various lengths and fittings to make my installation as straightforward and serviceable as possible.
7. Miscellaneous: Likelihood is very high that your installation will be different from mine, but it is very likely that most of this will be the same
   • You will need brake fluid! I used RBF660, but there are many options available
   • You will probably need various brake line adapters
   • You will probably need random things like butt and ring terminals, tape, maybe a hanger for passing wiring through, etc. Unfortunately, I will not catch everything.
8. Tools: In addition to all of the various parts listed above, you will also need quite a few different tools to do a job like this.
   • In addition to the scanner and general tools such as ratchets, sockets, and wrenches, there are many brake line-specific specialty tools. We wrote up a collection of these tools in a separate article for making the best brake lines, found here.

Factory ABS Removal

The first step in the conversion is removing the stock ABS unit. Each car will be different, but the systems are similar. Note that some cars pass data to and from the primary ECU, and a software tune may be necessary to function. On many older cars, however, you can remove the existing ABS control unit without much issue. On the E36 we are working on, it is also a 3-channel ABS system, meaning that the rear brakes have a T-joint that merges, and there is only one brake line that runs to the rear, while the MK60 ABS system is a 4-channel with independent lines that run to each rear brake caliper.

• Disconnect the Battery: This prevents electrical damage and system faults.
• Drain the Brake Fluid: Use a fluid extractor to minimize spillage.
  • I also used a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir since I also swapped out a different reservoir that did not have the factory return lines, as the MK60 ABS system does not use them.

• Unplug the ABS Module: Locate the factory ABS unit and carefully disconnect all electrical connectors.
  • On the E36 M3 that this system is installed into, the factory ABS had been relocated due to the Vorshlag LS swap, and it moved the Hydraulic Control Unit forward but remained mounted in a factory configuration. The harness is a twist-off, so separate it carefully, as the plastic connectors may be brittle with age.
• Remove the Brake Lines: Mark the locations of each line to ensure proper rerouting later. If you are reusing the lines for the MK60, we had to add new ones, so we split them entirely.
  • Additionally, some systems will have return lines that you may need to block or reroute; I choose to eliminate mine completely. Lastly, take note of the front and rear configuration of the master cylinder; the German markings show a V (“Vorne,” which means front) and an H (“Hinten,” which means rear); you will also want to plumb the external pressure sensors in between the master cylinder and the control unit, so plan for that now.
• Unbolt the ABS Unit: Remove all mounting bolts and take out the factory ABS system.
  • This is fairly straightforward once all of the electrical and hydraulic lines have been disconnected; there are usually 3 or 4 bolts holding the unit in place; simply undo these and remove the unit. Be careful not to damage any components or paint, and clean up any brake fluid, as it is quite corrosive.

At this point, your vehicle is ready for the MK60 ABS system installation.

Mounting the MK60 ABS Control Unit

Properly securing the MK60 unit is crucial for reliability, but the control unit can actually be mounted in virtually any location and position. You want to keep it away from heat and mount it with isolation bushings like a factory system does. On this E36, already having the Vorshlag LS swap, it also had the Vorshlag ABS pump relocation kit installed with the factory ABS pump. Although it was installed in a different location, I wanted to install it in a factory manner and reuse as many of the brake lines as possible.

• Select a Mounting Location: Choose a spot that is easily accessible and has clear brake line and wiring routing access.
  • It is wise to always consider future serviceability and access when fabricating a new location for a replaceable unit.
• Use a Custom Bracket: The MK60 ABS unit will likely require a custom bracket to fit securely in whatever vehicle you are installing it in. This can be a simple folded sheet metal bracket with holes; you don’t want to complicate this; its fairly straightforward; just ensure it can be mounted and has rubber isolators of some sort.
  • If you are able to use a pre-made bracket, it is usually cheaper and easier in the long run. I used a GSR Motorsports bracket for mine because it allows the MK60 control unit to be mounted in a factory configuration for the E36 M3, which allowed it to bolt into my already installed Vorshlag ABS bracket.

• Secure with Vibration-Dampening Mounts: This reduces stress and prolongs component life.
  • My bracket was able to reuse the rubber isolators that came stock on the factory ABS pump, but you can use any sort of dampening mount that fits your bracket or location requirements; many options can be found here at McMaster-Carr.
• Brake Line Adapters: There are 6 hydraulic ports you will need to account for and install adapters that work with your setup; many cars will be different here.
  • As I had 3AN stainless braided brake lines already running to that location from the previous install, I used male 3AN adapters here to make my life easier. You can simply install adapters that will allow your factory lines, or whatever size lines you make, to screw right in.
  • The two main lines that go to the master cylinder accept M12x1.0 bubble flare fittings. The left ports (front and rear) are also M12x1.0 bubble flares, and the right side ports (front and rear) are M10x1.0 bubble flares. You can simply find adapters for whatever style fitting you need or get 3AN adapters as I did.

• Confirm Clearance: Ensure no interference with other components.
  • Once you get everything in position, before you drill holes or cut any metal, mock up the unit in the desired location, plug in the wiring harness, and screw on all of the lines to make sure that you can access everything and can reach all of the connections with proper wrenches. This is very much a “measure twice, cut once” situation!

Once the unit is in place, install the harness plug and begin laying the wires out so they are not in the way and they are easily accessible for the later section. Install the brake line adapters and begin moving the brake lines that can be installed to the new unit and take measurements of the remaining lines that will need to be fabricated or modified.

Installing the Pressure Sensors

Since the MK60 ABS system relies on accurate pressure readings for optimal function. You will want to devise a plan to install these in between the master cylinder and the MK60 control unit. There are several ways to do this, but to reiterate my early comment, you will need two OEM sensors for this. I will share how I did it below and cover some alternative options that may be more suitable for your application.

• Identify Mounting Points: Most setups use a single pressure sensor for the front and another for the rear lines, installed between the master cylinder and the control unit.
  • I chose to utilize the VAC motorsports pressure sensor manifold (PN: VAC-BPSM), found here. This manifold was an easy install as I chose to use 3AN lines between the master cylinder and the control unit.
  • I also fabricated a simple bracket that placed the manifold block away from hot or moving pieces, allowing for easy future accessibility and reliability, and utilized factory threads for a clean install.

• Prepare the Sensor Mounting: If you choose to use a homemade adapter or inline T’s, ensure a snug fit for the sensor threads and lines.
  • If you drilled and tapped or nutserted your own holes to mount the block, be sure to check for clearance and prep/paint the cut metal for protection.
• Connect the Sensors to the MK60 Unit: Ensure proper wiring for data transmission.
  • There will be one connector for the front and one for the rear; make sure that the proper plug is on the appropriate sensor for each side.
• Alternative Mounting Options: It is possible to use a variety of methods to plumb the pressure sensors inline, and they all should work if they are installed correctly.
  • The primary other mounting solution I have encountered is to use an Atec Autotechnik Adapter PN: 649.429 with Banjo PN: 650.616 to: 3AN braided line to: -3AN to M12x1.0 Adapter at the ABS module.
    • These are very tricky to find, but I did find a source for the Atec Autotechnik adapters here.
  • I have also seen these installed with BrakeQuip T-block fittings (PN: BQ91A) and sensor adapters (PN: BQ44) with hard lines between the master and control unit.

If you are installing a bracket in a new place, and once you have everything marked up, you will punch and drill your holes. I like to use nutserts on this type of install and highly recommend you use rivnut tools where you are able (such as this rivnut tool); they greatly improve the future maintainability of these types of intrusive modifications. Take your time, and measure twice before you drill!

Fabricating the Brake Lines

Brake line routing is critical for proper pressure distribution. On this 1995 E36 M3, the factory ABS is a 3-channel system, meaning that the rear brakes are merged with a T-joint and share a single line that runs forward to the control unit. The MK60 ABS system is a 4-channel system, so an additional line is needed to provide independent pressure to the rear brakes.

These are the MK60’s 4 channel ports:

• Plan the Routing: Minimize sharp bends to prevent fluid restriction, and think of future accessibility.
  • Depending on your installation, you may also need to fabricate additional lines or reroute the existing ones.
• Use High-Quality Brake Lines: I used a combination of 3AN stainless steel braided lines and Nickle-Copper line for the hard line running to the rear.
  • If you plan and measure carefully, suggest using string with a 10% length margin added; you should be able to measure out how much of hard or soft line you may need.
  • Depending on your vehicle, you may need to add various adapters. I suggest taking note and ordering those ahead of time so that you can complete this in one shot.
  • I also recommend you use high-quality brake line nuts so that they do not corrode and fit properly when installed elsewhere
• Bend and Flare the Lines: Ensure proper fitting using a proper flare tool. I used this brake flare tool from Vevor with a bubble flare die; there are a ton of similar tools you can use for this.
  • You will also need some line bending tools; most of mine are very old but do the job. I highly recommend something that gives smooth radius and clean bends, like this.
  • Take your time measuring, then straighten out the line if yours is rolled; I couldn’t find a link to mine, but the line straightening tool I used was something like this. Cut a little longer than you need, test fit the shape, then bend and flare where needed to fit your space.
  • DON’T FORGET THE NUT BEFORE FLARING THE ENDS!
    • ALSO CHECK THAT ITS FACING THE RIGHT WAY! (ask me how I know…)

• Secure the Lines to the Chassis: Use insulated clamps to prevent vibration damage.
  • On this E36 M3, the factory brake line isolators mounted to the chassis had an available slot that I was able to tuck my line into and route with the factory lines. If you don’t have something like this, there are many brake line mounts available on the market, and you can even drill and install a nutsert for a clean, finished look.
• Connect to the ABS Unit and Calipers: Check all fittings for tightness, for rubbing or chafing contact points, and for tension.
  • I was able to reuse quite a few of my already installed stainless braided lines, but I did have to rerun them and secure them in a different fashion so that they were not going to rub on anything.

Once the lines are all run, a very helpful trick I learned over the years is to go around to all of the pressure lines and loosen them and tighten them again. Do this at least 3 times for each joint on any new NiCop lines; this will help the flare seat on the fitting and make them not leak!

YAW Sensor Mounting and Fabrication

The DSC/YAW sensor is a critical component for stability and traction control. It is one of the pieces that makes the MK60 ABS system as effective as it is, especially when compared to older types of systems.

• Locate a Flat, Level, and Central Mounting Surface: The sensor must be oriented correctly for accuracy.
  • The YAW sensor should be mounted as centrally as possible.
  • I mounted ours behind the center console switch panel, installed on top of the transmission tunnel with nutserts for future serviceability.

• Use a Custom Bracket if Needed: This ensures stability and prevents movement.
  • The sensor needs to be positioned in such a way that it is facing the correct side up and facing the correct side forward.
  • I had to fabricate a mount for this; I made mine a little odd-looking because it is also a shared mount for the new fuse block to save on weight and space.

• Secure with Anti-Vibration Mounts: Protects the sensor from excessive movement.
  • You can use the link previously mentioned for isolators or Delrin, whatever is needed to limit the sensor from hard vibration that may impact the performance of the system. It does NOT need to be anything special.
• Wire the Sensor to the MK60 Unit: I used the premade harness from RHT Motorsports, so the connector was already terminated.
  • If you choose to wire this yourself, you will want to locate a schematic and incorporate this connector into your harness.

Wiring Harness Fabrication & Installation

Wiring the MK60 ABS correctly can be challenging, as mentioned previously; I chose to purchase an existing harness from Doug Wardell. I will cover the installation based on the provided harness; your installation should be the same, even if you fabricate your own harness separately.

• Identify the Connections: Wheel speed sensors, power supply, pressure sensors, switches, and relays.
  • Each corner has wheel speed sensors that will need a wire run to them and connected. The MK60 is compatible with a variety of wheel speed sensors. The pin layout is as follows:
    • Pin 1—Signal
    • Pin 2—Supply Voltage (should be 12V when checked between this pin and chassis ground)
  • Note that sensors of the type used by the MK60 control unit are polarity sensitive. If you’re using a non-BMW sensor, you must verify the polarity.
  • There will be two pressure sensor connections that will connect to their respective front or rear signal sensors that were installed as previously documented above.
  • There will be an LED warning lamp circuit.
  • There will be an OBDII port that is wired in for diagnostic and service access as part of the standalone functionality.
  • There will be power and ground wires
  • Lastly, there will be the brake switch circuit
• ABS LED Warning Lamp: The MK60 has a wired ABS light output, which works on a pull-up/pull-down voltage circuit.
  • The +12V is HOT when RUN and ideally should be taken from the ignition barrel or the accessory live from the distribution sockets. The RHT harness comes with a 2.7K resistor already installed here, but if you fabricate your own, do not forget the resistor on the hot side.

• Brake Switch Circuit: The MK60 ABS system requires a signal when the brake pedal has been modulated in order to know when to monitor and when regular wheel slip may be required.
  • The proper signals are GROUND when the pedal is NOT pressed and an open circuit when the pedal is pressed.
    • The easy way of determining this is by splicing into the switched voltage side of the brake pedal switch that is located near the top of the brake pedal arm in most cars. Use a voltmeter to show which wire is the correct switched wire to tap into. Use this switched voltage to trigger the DPDT relay (as listed above), which should be wired as follows:
      • Pin 30: Yellow/black, yellow/white or yellow brake switch on my RHT harness
      • Pin 85: Ground
      • Pin 86: Switched power brake pedal switch
      • Pin 87A: Ground
• Power Supply: The MK60 ABS system requires 3 power inputs to operate and various grounds.
  • All power wires should be individually fused. The RHT harness identifies these three wires, and the larger two wires should have 20A fuses and the smaller one 5A fuses.
  • The grounds can be grounded securely where most appropriate for your installation.
• Solder and Heat-Shrink Connections: Improves reliability and prevents corrosion.
  • I prefer to use automotive-quality solder with proper heat shrink when I splice connections. Some people prefer sealed crimp connectors. Choose your own preference here.

• Route Wires Securely: Use factory grommets and protective sheathing wherever possible, and braid or harness tape where you cannot.
  • I ran my harness wires along factory paths and through factory grommets throughout the installation.
  • Take your time here; check for tension, tight bends that could damage the wire, proximity to heat, and especially for abrasion or chafing. Wrap in tape or braid wherever you can for added protection.
• Double-Check Pinout Configurations and Wire Terminations: Taking a double look to verify wiring before you attempt to power on is always good practice.
  • Ensure everything is secure, connectors are snug, terminations are tight, and correct pins were selected.

With the wiring harness installed and connections double-checked, you will want to wrap the harness with braid and/or harness tape. There is an opportunity to tuck it into existing harnesses and rewrap them for a more factory-like finish. You can also use factory-like automotive fabric tape for that consistent finish as well; it will have superior temperature and abrasion resistance, something like this automotive wire tape, found here.

BONUS Chapter—Installing the AP Racing CP5555 Motorsports Calipers

During the MK60 upgrade, we wanted to take our braking to another level as far as consistency and performance on track. We decide to upgrade to an older set of AP Racing CP5555 calipers we had picked up secondhand for a good price. With the technology of the MK60 and the motorsports-designed calipers with much larger two-piece rotors and pads for great friction surface area, this package will enhance braking performance significantly. Here’s how we installed them:

• Remove the Existing Calipers and Rotors: Unbolt and detach the brake lines; be careful of the brake fluid making a mess everywhere.
  • Unbolt the caliper and remove it from the knuckle. Once the caliper is released, secure it to the side until you are able to completely remove it from the vehicle.
  • Remove any retaining screws and remove the rotor. You will want to use a wire brush or a drill attachment and clean the surface of the hub before reinstallation.
  • In our case, we were able to reuse the previously installed stainless braided brake lines, so we did not remove these.
• Install the AP Racing Caliper Brackets: Ensure proper alignment and spacing with the rotor.
  • Most big brake kits will be installed with a separate bracket, and this AP kit was no different.
  • Locate the proper position and install the bolts; take note of the factory torque specs, which on an E36 M3 is ~81 ft-lbs.
• Install the AP Racing Rotors: The two-piece rotors will need to be assembled prior to installation.
  • To assemble two-piece rotors, you will want to loosely thread all of the hardware around the bell of the rotor hat; do this on a flat surface.
  • In a large star pattern, begin tightening (but not yet torquing) the hardware until all of the bolts are tight.
  • Then repeat the star pattern with your torque wrench; AP Racing designates this torque spec at 10.5 ft-lbs. More disc mounting details are here.
  • Once assembled, I like to mark my bolts that have been torqued so I know they have been, and I can see in the future if they’ve moved. The rotor can now be installed on the knuckle.
• Mount the CP5555 Calipers: Align the caliper and torque all fasteners to proper specifications.
  • With the rotor in place, you centered and installed the AP Racing calipers.
  • They simply sleeve over and bolt from above, through the caliper, to the bracket. Torque and mark appropriately.

• Install Stainless Steel Brake Lines: SS brake lines help prevent expansion and maintain a firm pedal feel for better modulation.
  • Since the hydraulic system is open, now is the best time to replace the lines. The rubber lines are spongy, and if they are original, they are probably old and maybe even worn.
  • Since we retained ours, we simply threaded them back in and reattached the rubber isolators to the shock body pass-through.
• Install the Brake Pads: One of the key benefits of a motorsports caliper is the size and type of brake pad you can run, along with the ease of removal/replacement.
  • If you haven’t already, push the pistons back in with a pad spreader tool, like this one, to make room for the rotor and piston in the caliper.
  • The CP5555 pads are PN: CP3894D54, which has an 18 mm thickness and a 54 mm depth with a total pad area of 76.3 cm², which is significantly larger and cheaper than most other pads.
  • These slide in from the outer edge and are retained with pins that are secured in the caliper.
  • Don’t forget to use high-temp grease on the touch points!

MK60 ABS Bleed Procedure

Proper bleeding is essential for brake functionality, especially after a large and invasive installation like this. There will be some uniqueness in this procedure, as we have changed many components, and the pump itself has been replaced. Before starting, do one more pass around the car, checking all of the brake line junctions for tightness. The MK60 has built-in diagnostics and maintenance procedures that can be accessed via the OBD2 port that’s part of the MK60 harness.

• Fill the Brake Fluid Reservoir: Use high-quality DOT 4 or racing brake fluid.
  • We used Motul RBF 660 fluid, found here, that has an excellent reputation on track, and we have used it many times before.
  • It has a dry boiling point of 617°F (325°C) and a wet boiling point of 400°F (204°C), which means it will handle the sustained high temperatures on the track, and even with some moisture, it will resist fade better than most other fluids before getting into high racing formulas.

• Perform a Manual Bleed: Start at the furthest caliper and work inward.
  • This was quick and dirty, just having some pressure applied to the systems and cracking open the valves. One pass was performed before moving to the pump for activation.
• Activate the MK60 ABS Pump: Use diagnostic scanners; it is the best method here.
  • There are a variety of scan tools that are able to perform code clearing and activate bleed procedures, including factory/shop-level scan tools, INPA or Autel, and a variety of handheld scanners.
  • Of the scanners on the market, we used the Schwaben or Foxwell NT510, found here, as it had been verified to work and was affordable.
  • Cycle through the settings and use the 2003-2006 E46 M3 as the manual selection from the MK60’s OBDII port. You will want to activate the pump by selecting the “replaced control unit” option, letting it cycle, and following the prompts.

• Re-Bleed Each Caliper: Repeat the process to ensure no air is trapped.
  • Once the pump has been cycled and air removed from the control unit pump, go back around the car and re-bleed starting from the furthest.
  • Continue until no more air is seen coming out and all fluid is new. Ensure that you are periodically checking the reservoir for fluid level.

• Check for Leaks and Pedal Feel: Ensure firm and consistent braking pressure.
  • Go around the car, check for leaks, and snug all of the bleed screws.
  • Clean any mess or brake fluid that may have spilled

The bleed process for most cars will be the same, but always double-check the orientation and bleed path. The process of activating the MK60 with the scanner will be the same as that you can use for identifying fault codes or errors in the system. Along with your warning lamp, you can now work the MK60 in a standalone configuration.

Wrapping Up

Installing the MK60 ABS system is a significant upgrade that enhances braking performance, stability, and safety. With proper installation of pressure sensors, YAW sensors, and brake lines, this system provides race-proven reliability. For those seeking even greater braking capability, the AP Racing CP5555 caliper upgrade is a worthwhile addition.

As with any other new brake install, get out and carefully test drive it, checking for pedal feel and modulation, watching for leaks, and overall functionality. Once confident in the integrity of the system, carry on with the appropriate bedding procedures for your pads.

This braking system, combined with some of the aero work done on this car, such as adding our carbon fiber front splitter, has made it handle incredibly well on track and inspire a new level of confidence when pushed hard.

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If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or contact us directly.